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Jacket | c. 1630

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Bodice | c. 1670

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Stays | c. 1620

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Jacket | c. 1600

Embroidered jackets were popular items of dress for women in the early 17th century. This very simple unlined example represents an informal style. Unlike more fitted versions, this loose, unshaped jacket may have been worn during pregnancy. A repeating pattern of curving scrolls covers the linen from which spring pea pods, oak leaves, acorns, borage, strawberries and honeysuckle embroidered in coloured silks. This uniquely English style of embroidery evolved in the late 16th century, inspired by wood cut illustrations in published herbals. The embroidery includes chain, stem, satin, trellis, darning and plaited braid stitches, as well as couching of the metal threads. Sleeves and sides are embroidered together with a laced insertion stitch in two shades of green instead of a conventionally sewn seam. (V&A Museum)

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Gown | c. 1610 | United Kingdom

This loose gown made of Italian brocaded silk would have been worn by a woman in the early 17th century as part of a formal day ensemble. A bodice and petticoat of equally luxurious, although not necessarily matching materials would have been worn underneath. The silk has been slashed between the brocaded motifs. This was a popular decorative technique during the 16th and early 17th centuries. At the centre back of the gown’s small upright collar are two holes to fasten a support for an elaborate lace collar.